Some Common Drywall Finishing Problems and How to Address Them

A seemingly simple project such as wallboard (aka drywall or Sheetrock) application can create some very annoying issues down the road if completed in haste.  Cracked joints, visible seams, and trouble spots where joint compound isn’t blended properly can make a room seem unfinished even after hours of hard work.  But with a few tricks of the trade, these issues can be tackled before they spring up after the fact.

The first issue, cracked joints, is an unsightly effect that can occur when taping isn’t done correctly.  A wallboard taper, using a long edged knife must spread a thin, uniform layer of joint compound in the area where two pieces of wallboard meet.  Then the taper must embed a piece of paper or mesh tape in the compound to create the joint.  With a couple more additional passes with the knife, thin layers of compound are added, creating a surface that can be feathered out with a sander to look uniform.

But the problem is that many homeowners will opt for mesh tape in place of paper tape.  Although it may not seem so, this thin strip of paper tape adds a great deal of strength to the joint. In most cases the combination of mesh tape and general purpose compound is far inferior, as mesh tape is meant to be used with a plaster-like compound which dries much harder.  Down the road these type of weak joints can fail due to seasonal wood movement in the walls, and leave you with uneven surfaces that cause an eyesore.  So to avoid cracked seams, make sure you use the correct tape and the correct compound for the job.

Visible seams can also be a problem, as wallboards only come with one side tapered to create a flush joint.  With the tapers, concealing paper tape and compound is a snap—just a matter of making passes in thin layers until it looks clean.  But the butt ends of wallboard are not tapered in this way, making it difficult for even a pro to hide completely.  The best way to combat this is really to do good planning of your wallboard application so that you get as few of these butt joints as possible.  To do this you can opt for longer wallboard panels, which will mean you use less boards to begin with.  Also, you can use features such as moldings and trim pieces, which will allow you to mask long runs of wall as you go.

Visible joint compound can also be a problem if the final step of the application, sanding, does not sufficiently feather out your dimples and taped joints.  With this issue you will see right away that joint compound and wallboard paper do not have the same textures once paint is applied.  Light can bounce off of the compound in a way that differentiates it from the paper, causing the appearance of what is called “shiners” in the trade.  A simple and effective way to defeat this is to apply a thin, even coat of compound, known as a skim-coat, to the entire wall.  It’s not as difficult to achieve as it may sound, as you can easily apply a layer of watered down joint compound with a paint roller and then smooth it out with a wide taping knife.  Once completed and dried you can lightly sand it to give yourself a completely uniform surface with no visible texture differences.